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Mediterranean mussels gleamed black. Taut yellow strings connected the tail fins to the grim mouths of sea bream, their silver backs curved like commas. The pods used to be imported, said Sumi Dalia Aktar, a local Bangladesh-born politician who grew up in an apartment overlooking the market. But now, she said, Bangladeshis had found a way to grow and sell them in Palermo, angering the local Mafiosi who see cultivation of the pods as a threat to their traditions and control. A fear of migrants, their customs — and sometimes, their produce — has taken root in Italy, fueling the rise of populism and the ascent of Matteo Salvini, the tough interior minister and far-right leader of the anti-migrant League party. Salvini characterizes as allies of human smugglers. On Saturday, Mr. On Monday, after the migrants landed anyway, a furious Mr. But what Italians actually think about migrants is complicated, especially in Palermo, a city with a history dating back to at least the Phoenicians that adapted to conquerors and waves of immigration.